How To Renovate A Garage Into A Living Space
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How To Renovate A Garage Into A Living Space

Renovating a garage into a new living space will provide a reader with details of what materials were used in this experience. It details what method was used and how to create a good space with material and tools required to complete the task. The are also problem solving tasks that were carried out so the reader can digest this as well.

When one sees an opportunity to renovate any space, it becomes an opportunity to improve what once was a problem. A DIY project opens up a host of opportunities. In this situation, we looked at a garage that had been erected using pipes and metal walls and a corrugated iron roof. It was of a rectangular shape measuring 17x3 yards. It was located at the west end of a long narrow driveway. It was too narrow for a car to fit through easily and used formerly as a plant nursery.

The garage has colour bond metal walls with a roller door at the front on the east side.

There is a double folding door at the opposite end. There is a large double bay window opening into a large garden. The wall that is on the fence line to the people next door does not reach the ground allowing a space that is problematic to water leaks when the rain arrived.

This would be the first task. I mixed some ready made concrete with some rocks and bricks to fill the spaces. Due to the design from the metal sheeting inside

It proved difficult as the metal had kinks or creases in the pattern. I filled in the cement mix as best I could. The rain tested this out and leaks remained a problem. Silicone was next and then tar which was very effective. The use of the same mixture on the roof worked well after securing roofing nails.

There were no interior walls in place at that time, only exposed beams and timber struts to strengthen the framework. There was a need to further strengthen the frame of the walls and ceiling with more timber to be placed. It was established that every 18 inches new struts to be placed as well as 4 main beams over-head for the ceiling.

We used  a treated pine variety of timber, which is easier to work with as well as being strong as the hard timber variety. The lengths of timber came in a 4”x2”x 6’ lengths unless longer was needed, one orders it to be cut. We purchased our supplies from Bunnings a local hardware store that has numerous stores over the state if not the Country of Australia. We used 2” nails and self-tapping screws where necessary.

The wall panelling we chose to use was a wood chip fibre variety. It would not need any painting and was easy to work with except for the fine filings akin to splinters if you smoothed your hand over the surface. We firstly insulated the ceiling and walls making sure to measure properly. Once cut the pieces were put in place and strapped into position to prevent shifting. We were able to lift and place the ceiling material in two pieces. Plasterboard was used and we used jacks and nail guns to quickly secure it in place. Once this was done the joint was plastered and when dried would be sanded down in preparation to be painted.

The wall panelling would be the most important as it would bring the entire project together. We decided to start with the south wall, as it was a complete wall in area without any breaks or obstacles. Each piece was measured twice as a safety precaution. We used both power and handsaws depending on the size of the piece required. We would nail the top and then each side. The bottom edge would need to be sitting level as could be. The power cords and wiring were tucked away at the top layer with a removable piece of panelling The window was a little tricky as we needed to allow for the antique frame-work. The roller door was free of timber, as we would need it as an entry point later. We needed to be careful of live wires and would isolate the power where possible. The measuring and cutting took 2 days along with securing in place. We needed to replace the door, which is sold complete in the door kit. The pieces fit closely in place with hinges supplied for door. The placing of door knob and lock has instructions supplied in the kit. The pricing will vary on where it is purchased. We found our local hardware suppliers were competitive. We are in Australia and Bunnings was the store we used for all supplies.

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Comments (5)

Lots of good info! But don't think I'll be trying this soon:)

The step by step procedure is well laid-out here!

Good advice! Thanks for the tips

Great info! Lots of people in my neighborhood have renovated their garages and added an extra bedroom or other room above.

A second read for me today Peter, this topic really is a good one! I hope to read more from you soon my friend.

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